Monday’s whispers: Romain Meder at Primard, Fabrice Giraud at Beslay, Camille Saint M’leux at Villa 9 Trois, Nicolas Lormeau at Bizanos, Dominique Bouchet leaves Paris for Tokyo, Martino Ruggieri arrives, Jean Imbert on the road again, Jean -Louis André historian of France at the table | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Romain Meder at Primard

Romain Meder © Nathalie Notebook

This is last week’s gourmet news: the arrival of Romain Meder at Primard. We had known the gourmet beginnings under the leadership of Eric Frechon of this beautiful domain signed by the Fontenille group and former property of Catherine Deneuve in Guainville, in Eure-et-Loir, one hour from Paris, on the west side. It will be the former chef of Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée, trained at Potel and Chabot, then as sous-chef at Hélène Darroze, who, since 2006, has joined the Ducasse group, working in particular in Doha and Mauritius. , to prove itself, in a vegetal mode, with cereals and vegetables from the vegetable gardens of Primard in a “natural” mode that is reminiscent of its way at the Plaza Athénée with AD. Let us add that Romain Meder had launched Admo, an ephemeral and Ducassian experience at the restaurant Les Ombres at the Quai Branly, with Albert Adria, and that he remains chef consultant and partner at Sapid, which delivers “earthly, nomadic and sustainable” cuisine to the 54 Rue de Paradis. A way of saying that he is not completely leaving the Ducasse group. First service signed Romain Meder at Primard on April 11th.

Fabrice Giraud at Beslay

Fabrice Giraud © GP

Fabrice Giraud? We have known for a long time this “mercenary of the kitchen”, fifty years old and experienced, who was for more than six years the maestro of the White House on avenue Montaigne, after having worked with Alain Ducasse in Monaco, alongside Jean-Louis Nomicos in the Grande Cascade, but also at Château Grand Barrail in Saint Emilion, before moving to Shangri-La in Shanghai and then in Istanbul, and having been trained in London with Andrew Harvey. This fifty-something native of La Ciotat, who has kept the accent of the sun, demonstrates flawless technical mastery. Here he puts his talent at the service of a new charming hotel in the 11th arrondissement, located in a former shoe factory from which he has kept the appearance of a loft that has become rural (the Hôtel des deux Girafes), whose attractive table and contemporary style plays well-dressed bistronomy. His menus are tempting, those for lunch are freebies (€26 and €32) and all of his offerings are fine, light, fresh and amazing. We’ll discuss it again later. In the meantime, here is the address: 67 avenue Parmentier. And tel. : 01 83 75 11 71

Camille Saint M’leux at Villa 9 Trois

Camille Saint-M’leux © GP

It is a 26-year-old chef who blows a wind (from Brittany) of force 5 on 9.3. In the beautiful 1920s villa that bears this name (Villa 9 Trois), in its garden, like an island of charm in the heart of the modern residences and HLMs of Montreuil and Seine-Saint-Denis, the young Camille Saint-M’ plays them its fresh, light, subtle, iodized score in the colors of the Great West. Native of Nantes, with Malouin ancestors (his name derives from that of the corsair city), having worked in London with Brett Graham at the Ledbury, in Paris at the Taillevent with Alain Solivérès, at the Shangri-La with Christophe Moret and the pastry chef Michaël Bartocetti , but also and above all at Le Cinq with his Breton compatriot Christian Le Squer, without forgetting to travel to Australia, this “coming man” from the great west already deserves more than one star… which he doesn’t yet have. Maître d’hôtel-sommelier Jérémie Chemama dazzles you with all the beautiful bottles from an imposing cellar; a way to enthusiastically accompany a lively, light, subtle cuisine, in tune with the times, very “New Wave Brittany”. On the theme of shells, fish, sea urchins, it’s a real marine party that is proposed there. We’ll be back soon.

Nicolas Lormeau in Bizanos

Nicolas Lormeau and Laure Puech © GP

The table that rises on the outskirts of Pau, on the gastronomic mode? That of Nicolas Lormeau, in Bizanos, who moved his “Esbérit” on the road to Ttrees. This 37-year-old from Gers, born in Condom, trained with Michel Trama in Puymirol, worked with Gilles Goujon in Fonjoncouse, Gérald Passédat in Marseille and with Bernard Bach, in his home department, at the Puits Saint Jacques de Pujaudran, invested with chic an old private house which was a Franco-American school attended by Saint-John-Perse, alias Alexis Léger, who lived nearby. The facade has neo-colonial chic, with its view of the garden. The interior is modern, cozy, furnished with charm. The kitchen can be guessed from its bay window overlooking the dining room. A large lunch menu at €39 allows you to go around the question and two in the evening (at €50 and €75) further demonstrate the ambitions of the chef, who once had a gourmet drink and is lucky to star here. And the wine advice of sommelier Laure Puech is invaluable. Case to follow!

Dominique Bouchet leaves Paris for Tokyo, Martino Ruggieri arrives

Dominique Bouchet in the kitchen © DR

He leaves Paris for Tokyo, where he runs a prestigious table bearing his name. Dominique Bouchet, a discreet Charentais, trained with Joël Robuchon, spent at the Tour d’Argent, at the Crillon, at the Moulin de Marcouze, a star in Japan with two stars, a discreet star facing the European market, sold his house to the group “Grand Est Automobiles”, based in Schiltigheim, until then specialized in luxury cars and representing eight brands (Audi, Citroën, Cupra, Opel, Peugeot, Seat, Skoda and Volkswagen), which is diversifying by opening its first table. He entrusts the keys to Martino Ruggieri, 35, a native of Puglia, who was the Italian candidate for the Bocuse d’Or in 2019, and who until now was assistant chef to Yannick Alléno at Ledoyen.

Martino Ruggeri in the kitchen © DR

Jean Imbert back on the road

Jean Imbert on the VSOE © DR

Saint-Barth (Cheval Blanc), Saint-Tropez (To Share), Paris (the big restaurant at the Plaza Athénée, the Relais Plaza, Monsieur Dior, Sables where he advises his brother Léo and his friend from afar) are no longer enough… Here comes the indefatigable Jean Imbert back on the road. For a few months, he had been posting photos on his Instagram account with his friends, such as Omar Sy, JR or Pharrell Williams, showing him cooking on the VSOE. So here he is officially becoming the executive chef of this prestigious train that connects Paris to Venice and a few other dream cities. He explains it with precision.“We have been working on this project with the Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express teams and mine for two years. I will never forget the heritage of this train, but we started from scratch by changing the crockery, the light, the artistic direction etc.. and after several test trips we will start next Saturday April 23 with a Rome- Paris and for several years of travel! Thank you -LVMH & Belmond, Andrea, Dan, Gary, Pascal and all the teams for trusting me, your train is legendary and we will do everything to live up to its legend”

Jean-Louis André historian of France at the table

It’s called “Tell me what you eat” and the subtitle is explicit: “A history of France at the table”. In 230 pages, Jean-Louis André, normalien, gastronome, director and author of documentaries on FR3 and Arte, journalist for Le Monde and Saveurs, writer who has written excellent books between walks and delicacies (Le Passant de Paris, Cuisine des Pays de France, the true taste of New York), draws up an assessment of the French at the table, since 1945, of their eating habits, their fashions, their direct contact with modernity. Everything goes there, from the influence of new cuisine, to the role of Paul Bocuse in getting chefs out of their stoves and making them stars. Anecdote mixes with reflection, personal experience gives substance to statistics and feeds a fascinating, lively, lucid story, rich in varied lessons. If we eat less and better today, it is because the journey was difficult. This rich and colorful book captures it brilliantly.

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